- Carleen Birnes
- Jul 31
- 2 min read
My last morning in Peru. Devouring small mugs of strong, dark coffee. My legs are tired, but surprisingly happy after yesterday’s longest hike to Salkantay Pass. 4.5 miles one way, with an elevation gain of 2,000 ft to reach the ridgeline at 15,200 ft.
As the incline steepened, I had to quiet intrusive thoughts:
Can this nearly 52-year-old body keep up with the young Israeli couple I’m third-wheeling with?
Then a phrase I used to preach to my old bootcamp clients surfaced: The body achieves what the mind believes.
So I believed, which helped me become fully present to the experience. The staggering beauty of the terrain. The mystery pains that flashed warnings in my left calf, then my hip—then disappeared. My heart and I developed an intimate relationship. When the beating became too intense, I paused and reset, practicing my yoga breathing: inhale through my nose then long, slow exhale to calm my heart rate.
I reminded myself: I love this shit.
Here we have a challenge within my skill set, but beyond my comfort zone. I imagined each step as a chisel that chipped away at the pain cave, transforming it into a tunnel.
Then, during the steepest part of the climb, I met adventurous Chris, catching his breath on the side of the trail. I heard a familiar American voice and called out a friendly hello. Turns out Chris works in Hagerstown and hadn’t caught much rockfish on the Magothy River this summer. What are the chances?!
Chris is also an AT shuttle volunteer with the trail name “Soggy.” He knew “Jellybean,” a thru-hiker I’d recently chatted with on the Maryland section of the AT. Our energy exchange boosted us to the top. We fist bumped, took a celebratory photo, and said our goodbyes as he was trekking on to Machu Picchu.
As I sat and rested on a rock, trying to absorb the magnitude of these sacred peaks, something spectacular happened: an avalanche on Salkantay Peak!
Snow thundered down the mountain face, vibrating the air.
Awe. Reverence.
I felt so small in that moment, and so did the burdens I’d been carrying. Nature knows how to clear space and shift our perspective.
I firmly believe that Earth is our greatest teacher. Hiking through Peru has allowed me to be its student again. Sometimes the lessons require movement, and sometimes stillness (it’s easier to be still when your muscles are fatigued!). It’s helped me relearn how to pay attention. To attune to the beauty of the world. This life.
We made our coca leaf offerings to Apu Salkantay, the sacred mountain spirit. On our descent, my guide Nildo and I shared stories about our kids, our lives.
Now, the Andes live behind my eyelids. The Quechua stories of Pachamama live in my heart.
“The body achieves what the mind believes" carried me up this mountain, just like it carried me through so many races and pain caves.
But standing in the shadow of Apu Salkantay, I feel that belief softening… expanding.
We don’t conquer mountains.
We meet them — and ourselves — on the path.